Jeweler Known for Couture Sets His Sights on New York

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Jeweler Known for Couture Sets His Sights on New York

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A select customer base really suits Glenn Spiro, the independent jeweler, with ateliers in London and Geneva. He has decided to showcase his pieces this month at the Madison Avenue salon of Lauren Santo Domingo, founder of the fashion website Moda Operandi.

“Jewelers today follow trends, becoming so big there’s no way to concentrate on customers and their needs,” Mr. Spiro said in a telephone interview. “I can only serve 30 customers well. We have a relationship. We argue across the table, and there’s this whole banter.”

For more than 25 years he created couture pieces for many large brands, though for legal reasons he cannot identify them. He started a line under his own name in 2014, with prices ranging from $10,000 into the millions.

Papillon rings, made of cognac-colored diamonds, have lever-like mechanisms that make the wings move.

Mr. Spiro, who expects to show at Ms. Santo Domingo’s salon about three times this year, said he could now “create by mood.”

Take, for example, his Fishbone earrings, which will be in the initial New York presentation and come in either diamonds and rubies or in emeralds. Inspired by a lunch at Scott’s, a seafood restaurant in London, he took home the fish bone, he said. “Some things you just do, and they work.”

Other new pieces include a set of bangles made from 90-year-old ivory tusks strengthened with horsehair and titanium, and a pair of oversize titanium Mosaic earrings in rhodolites and diamonds that sit flat against the ear. The 18-karat pink-gold Reveal ring, punctuated with amethysts and 137 diamonds, takes its name from the wearer’s ability to twist the base and watch as petals open to reveal a 1.29-carat fancy yellow diamond.

The Papillon ring, perhaps the closest thing Mr. Spiro has to a signature piece, pays tribute to that age-old high-jewelry motif: butterflies. Fashioned from cognac-colored diamonds in graduated shades that create a three-dimensional appearance, the butterfly’s wings flap when worn, thanks to a leverlike mechanism. “Jewelry should put a smile on your face,” Mr. Spiro said.

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