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Luxury brands were once notoriously averse to controversy, but the verdict is still out on whether Mr. Depp’s case hurt or helped sales.
In 2008, Sharon Stone, then a brand ambassador for the Dior Capture skin-care line, caused a scandal in China with remarks she made at the Cannes Film Festival suggesting that a deadly earthquake in Sichuan Province was “karma” for the country’s mistreatment of Tibet. Before you could say “J’adore,” Dior had pulled her ads from China and issued an official apology in her name.
In 2005, when photographs of Kate Moss published in The Daily Mail seemed to show her snorting cocaine, she was dropped from planned ad campaigns by Chanel, Burberry and H&M.
And in 2009, when Tiger Woods admitted to numerous extramarital affairs, his contracts with Tag Heuer and Procter & Gamble were curtailed.
Yet after weeks of Johnny Depp, the face of Dior’s Sauvage men’s scent since 2015, in court for his defamation case against his former wife Amber Heard, and her countersuit — a case in which both sides were exposed as deeply flawed — Dior continued to stand, albeit silently, by its man. And his ads.
Just as it did in 2020, when Mr. Depp sued The Sun newspaper for calling him a “wife beater,” and lost, with the British judge stating that he believed multiple alleged violent incidents had occurred and that Mr. Depp had put Ms. Heard “in fear of her life.” This time, the jury found that both Mr. Depp and Ms. Heard had been defamed, though Mr. Depp was awarded more money.
Dior’s silence comes despite the fact that the year before that trial, Sauvage itself was at the center of a controversy over an ad campaign that featured Mr. Depp wandering lonesome on the plains, as somewhere nearby a Native American performed a tribal dance (and a product name that is awfully close to a historic racial slur appeared). After two weeks of a public outcry, the commercial was taken off the air.
What gives? How is it that this time, when faced with the ad — on Dior’s website — featuring Mr. Depp’s smoldering self strumming his electric guitar in the desert and intoning, “In the wilderness, fearless and human, Sauvage,” there have been no particular protests? No calls to sign a petition boycotting the scent on change.org? That even the fashion watchdog Diet Prada has yet to weigh in on the Depp-Dior relationship?
Something has fundamentally changed. And it may say as much about our tolerance for bad behavior and our relationship to celebrity (and cancel) culture as about the marketing model of luxury brands.
Once upon a time, when the celebrity endorsement was born, so was the awareness that a brand entered into the relationship at its own risk. The potential upside was high: Unlike a model, who was effectively a blank slate onto which a brand projected itself, a celebrity was a vessel already filled with associations, be it glamour, masculinity, philanthropy. If cracks appeared in that facade, however, they could send shock waves to the products.
“In the past, when a celebrity was accused of something, almost anything, even before they went to trial, a luxury brand would distance itself,” said Robert Burke, the founder of a luxury consultancy. Luxury brands were notoriously averse to controversy, and any association that could upset consumers or tarnish the golden glow of the brand’s name.
But, said Lucie Greene, the founder of the forecasting and strategy company Light Years: “We’re also seeing some big celebrity bounce backs and redemptions. Almost to the point of being cyclical.” Think, for example, of Kourtney Kardashian’s Dolce & Gabbana-“hosted” wedding, which was another stage in that brand’s return after multiple offensive statements by the designers.
“The general public has gotten worn down by cancel culture and accusations, and brands are not as quick as they might have been to take a position,” Mr. Burke said. He and Ms. Greene believe this may be the beginning of a shift.
In the courtroom. A defamation trial involving the formerly married actors Johnny Depp and Amber Heard just concluded in Fairfax County Circuit Court in Virginia. Here is what to know about the case:
The case. Mr. Depp brought a defamation case against Ms. Heard in an effort to clear his name from domestic abuse allegations that she has made against him and that he denies. The jury is also considering a countersuit from Ms. Heard, who claims that Mr. Depp defamed her when his former lawyer said her domestic abuse claims were a “hoax.”
Ms. Heard’s op-ed. Mr. Depp’s suit was filed in response to an op-ed Ms. Heard wrote for The Washington Post in 2018 in which she described herself as a “public figure representing domestic abuse.” Though she did not mention her former husband’s name, he and his lawyers have argued that she was clearly referring to their relationship.
The end of their marriage. Ms. Heard filed for divorce in 2016, just over a year after the pair had married. She also obtained a temporary restraining order against the actor after accusing him of hitting her. She later withdrew that claim, and in January 2017, the couple agreed to a $7 million divorce settlement.
An earlier defamation case. The trial follows another case Mr. Depp brought in London in 2020 against The Sun newspaper, which called him a “wife beater” in a headline. In that trial, a judge found that there was evidence that he had assaulted Ms. Heard repeatedly.
The domestic abuse claims. In the 2020 trial, Ms. Heard accused her former husband of assaulting her first in 2013, after they began dating, and detailed other instances in which he slapped her, head-butted her and threw her to the ground. Mr. Depp has since accused her of punching him, kicking him and throwing objects at him.
The verdict. After a six-week trial, the jury found Mr. Depp was defamed by Ms. Heard in her op-ed, but also that she had been defamed by one of his lawyers. Mr. Depp was awarded $15 million in compensatory and punitive damages, but the judge capped the punitive damages total in accordance with legal limits for a total of $10.35 million. The jury awarded Ms. Heard $2 million in damages.
Reactions are no longer knee-jerk. That’s a good thing. But the silence, at least on the part of Dior, which did not respond to multiple emails requesting comment, seems less measured than calculated.
Dior may well be betting that despite the intense public interest in the Depp-Heard trial, consumers will be on to the next escapist distraction now that the verdict is in. That, as a company, Dior’s loyalty to its chosen celebrity, and the understanding that we are all fallible beings, will outweigh the sort of behavior Mr. Depp has already acknowledged. That upsetting Ms. Heard’s fans is less potentially damaging than upsetting his fans.
That despite the fact that the majority of Dior’s sales come from women’s wear, and its women’s line is led by a female designer whose first show included shirts with the Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie line “We should all be feminists” — despite the fact the company created a women@dior program to encourage female professionals — its support of Mr. Depp will not be seen as subverting those positions.
That the company can keep its head down and wait to see how the consumer responds. And the consumers, at least in Mr. Depp’s case, seem to be speaking loudly. Calls have gone out over social media to buy #Sauvage, the better to demonstrate support for Mr. Depp. It has become the fragrance equivalent of an expensive message tee; a fan souvenir.
All of which suggests it is possible that one of the only entities that could profit from the train wreck that is Depp v. Heard may turn out to be Dior and the brand-celebrity alliance in general. Whether this is a victory a brand should want is another question.
Already a reframing of the experience is in the air. A response to the extreme vitriol unleashed against Ms. Heard is brewing in the digisphere, which serves as a reminder that the real issue is not celebrity or fragrance or branding, but a relationship that veered into physical and emotional violence.
And to keep quiet about that completely stinks.