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Our critic explains why Frenchmen love crisp denim, and what you can learn from them about how to style these statement pants without looking too contrived — on either side of Labor Day.
You clearly have not been watching the back catalog of French New Wave movies. Onscreen, Jean-Paul Belmondo and Alain Delon are practically poster boys for men in white jeans, especially on the Riviera.
Which may be why, despite the fact that white denim was introduced by Lee in the 1960s as part of its Lee Westerner collection (the material used was officially called “white cotton satin”) and made appearances in the much celebrated 1990s collections of Helmut Lang and the wardrobe of the British graphic designer Peter Saville, it has become a perennial style statement among French and Italian men.
I know at least three Frenchmen in fashion who have made white jeans their personal signature: the photographer Gilles Bensimon, the Purple magazine founder Olivier Zahm and the showroom impresario Christophe Desmaison, who told me he wears white jeans pretty much “365 days a year.”
When I asked him why, he said: “They look equally good with a dress shirt, blazer and dress shoes as a polo and boat shoes. They are the most versatile basic in my wardrobe — a bit casual, yet elegant and certainly more distinctive than khakis.” By the way, he gets his jeans at Polo Ralph Lauren but also recommends Todd Snyder, Sid Mashburn and Levi’s 501s.
This brings up an issue regarding white jeans, however. As much as any other single item in a man’s wardrobe, they flirt with stereotype. National and otherwise.
Jacob Gallagher, our men’s wear reporter, called white jeans “the pants equivalent of a shiny going-out top. Something that can come off as too intentional, too contrived, too forced caszh.”