Wedding Fashion: Grooms Ditch Black Tuxedos for More Customized Looks

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Wedding Fashion: Grooms Ditch Black Tuxedos for More Customized Looks

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Some men are ditching standard suit options in favor of more customized looks for their wedding attire.

When it comes to wedding outfit shopping, brides seem to get all the attention.

There’s New York Bridal Fashion Week, a three-day extravaganza where brands showcase their newest designs. There is a reality television series dedicated to dress shopping called “Say Yes to the Dress,” which has been running since 2007 and has led to multiple spinoffs.

Major cities are replete with bridal boutiques, and buying the bridal gown is often considered one of the first steps in the wedding planning process.

But what about the men getting married?

“I can’t tell you the number of times we get calls a couple of weeks before the wedding,” said Michael Andrews, who has been dressing grooms since 2006 at Michael Andrews Bespoke, his luxury clothing shop in New York. In October 2023, he opened the Groom Shop, also in New York, dedicated solely to the groom shopping experience.

Since the start of the pandemic, when comfort clothes predominated in everyday fashion, Mr. Andrews said he has noticed that more grooms are requesting looks for the entire wedding weekend, as multiday wedding celebrations have become more popular, as well as an outfit to change in between the ceremony and reception.

“People in their day-to-day are kind of dressed down, but whenever they’re looking for an excuse to get dressed up, they’re really doing it right,” Mr. Andrews said. “Men recognized that their wedding day was an opportunity to express their personalities.”

The Groom Shop in New York City.Costas Picadas
“Men recognized that their wedding day was an opportunity to express their personalities,” said Michael Andrews, who opened the Groom Shop in October 2023.Costas Picadas

And many grooms are averting the traditional black tuxedo and crafting custom looks in collaboration with designers.

Travis London, an interior designer who got married in Miami in November 2023, started planning his wedding outfit as soon as he got engaged. He has nostalgia for the weddings he grew up watching and reading about in the magazine Martha Stewart Weddings, which, he said, is why he always knew he wanted an all white outfit for his wedding despite the fact that he loves color. (Shades of green, pink, orange and blue are bountiful in his Miami home, which was featured in Architectural Digest.)

“I still wanted to feel masculine, but I wanted to play on all the ideas of what a bride will wear,” said Mr. London, 35.

“The guys always look the same — a black tux,” he added. “The dresses of the women were all so detailed, so ornate, so beautiful.” The designer Jerome LaMaar custom-made a sheer top for Mr. London that included a train embellished with buttons. He applied pearls and rough-cut Swarovski crystals to the top by hand. The outfit also included a crown custom made by Soull Ogun, a founder of L’Enchanteur, a jewelry brand.

The custom look took about three months to complete. “My destiny, my calling, is to make clothes that have a little more flavor and show men they can play with color and textures and shapes that feel good for them,” Mr. LaMaar said. “This is their day, too — put the effort in so the person you’re marrying sees that it is an equal conversation in the relationship, through fashion and style.”

For his look, Drew Gehling, 41, chose a custom green velvet tuxedo from Michael Andrews Bespoke to match the nature aesthetic of his summer camp-themed wedding in September 2023. Mr. Gehling, an actor, frequently wears tailored costumes in the Broadway shows he appears in. He knew that he wanted to have fun with the fabric and the color of his wedding tuxedo, and that he didn’t want a suit off the rack.

For Drew Gehling’s summer camp-themed wedding, he wore a custom green velvet tuxedo from Michael Andrews Bespoke. He had his wife’s initials embroidered on the sleeves.Karen Oberst

“I understand how empowering it can be to wear something that is made specifically for your body at a specific time,” Mr. Gehling said. He added personal touches to his tuxedo, including his wife’s initials embroidered on the sleeves.

Nico Santos, an actor who got married in November 2023, crafted his custom look by weaving both sides of his identity as a Filipino American. He wore a barong, a traditional Filipino formal shirt, by the Filipino designer Veejay Floresca. Traditionally, the barong is shirt length, but Mr. Santos, 44, wore a mid calf length barong to “evoke bridal,” he said. He paired it with wide legged pants and a Dries Van Noten jacket that he had previously seen worn by the actor Jacob Elordi. The jacket, which is traditionally not worn with a barong, has bold, padded shoulders reminiscent of the traditional formal dresses worn by Filipina women.

“You can do whatever you want,” Mr. Andrews said. “It is an opportunity where you can throw the rules out the window if you want to.”

Zeke Smith, left, and Nico Santos on the day of their wedding in November 2023. Mr. Santos wore a barong, a Filipino formal shirt, over wide-legged pants. His jacket by Dries Van Noten featured shoulder pads, similar to those traditionally worn by Filipina women.Alisha Jucevic for The New York Times

That’s why Andrés Cardona, who lives in Los Angeles and got married in Bogotá, Colombia, in June 2023, put together a brief explaining his desire to blur the lines between masculinity and femininity, and presented it to a Colombian designer he had been following on Instagram: Jonathan Cortez of La Petite Morte.

Mr. Cardona, 33, was inspired by an outfit worn by Bad Bunny in a scene in the music video for his song “Titi me Preguntó.” In the scene, Bad Bunny is getting married, and he is wearing a black maxi skirt and a white top with puffed shoulders. Mr. Cardona’s brief included a photo of Bad Bunny in the music video, as well as images of Timothée Chalamet, Harry Styles and Shawn Mendes in flowing, pastel suit pants and unconventional matching tops.

Over Zoom, Mr. Cardona, a product marketer at TransUnion, and his now-husband Carlos Marin, a 32-year-old product manager at Google, met with the designer over the course of four months, discussing ideas for their looks.

Carlos Marin, left, and Andrés Cardona, who wanted to blur the lines between masculinity and femininity with their attire.Phil and Kat

The end result for Mr. Cardona was an original eucalyptus green-colored suit that included pleated pants. Mr. Marin opted for a reinterpreted version of the liqui liqui, a traditional Venezuelan outfit consisting of a button down jacket and trousers. The liqui liqui is typically boxy, but Mr. Marin wanted a shorter and tighter fit. He also wore a skirt-like garment tied around his waist.

“The most important thing for us was to create a moment that felt authentic,” Mr. Marin said. “To connect with where we’re from and connect with who we are as people.”

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