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In the past two decades, the category has become a showcase for new materials, ergonomic advances and improved timekeeping.
The modern sports watch is the instrument that puts contemporary watchmaking to a brutal test. Not only must it deliver gold medal-level performance with state-of-the-art precision, but it also has to project style and status on the winners’ podium.
As recently as 20 years ago, a sports watch needed only to be water-resistant to a depth of about 50 meters (164 feet).
But over the past two decades, it has become about so much more than water resistance. Improvements in micro-engineering and materials have enabled watchmakers to improve their game in every way, with more powerful shock-absorbing systems, enhanced ergonomics and, of course, better timekeeping. One of the most important of these developments has been the introduction of silicon-based components.
Silicon is lightweight, so it requires less energy to activate moving components, and antimagnetic, so cellphones and other electronics can’t interfere with the movement’s operation. It also is hard enough to allow tiny components to be shaped within micro-tolerances, producing precisely engineered gears and pinions that hold their shape with minimal friction. Components therefore last longer and need no lubrication — and, ideally, require fewer repairs.
“It’s definitely one of the materials of the future for watchmaking,” said Romain Marietta, director of product development and heritage at Zenith.
Cases also have come a long way since the days when gold, steel and platinum were the only options. They now are being outperformed in sports models by variations of carbon fiber, ceramic and alternate metals such as titanium.