PARIS — Chaumet’s experimentation last fall with a pop-up museum in its resplendent 18th-century headquarters on the Place Vendôme met with such success that the jewelry house decided to make the museum a permanent addition, and has already unveiled a second exhibition.
“We wanted to continue to share with the public,” said Béatrice de Plinval, curator of Chaumet’s Musée Éphémère and heritage collections.
“We discovered that people are absolutely enchanted, because for them it is part of the French decorative arts.”
The new display, “Une Éducation Sentimentale,” will run through Sept. 24. It includes watches, jewelry, drawings and photographs from the house’s private collection that tell stories of friendship and romance.
Ms. de Plinval said the title, borrowed from Gustave Flaubert’s 1869 novel, reflects the house’s desire to display its rich history to the public and to acknowledge Chaumet’s links with the literary world — Edith Wharton, François Mauriac and Louise Lévêque de Vilmorin all were customers.
Many of the pieces are literary objects themselves, like the pair of acrostic bracelets described by Ms. de Plinval as “secret garden jewelry.” One is an original design by Joseph Chaumet, circa 1890; the second, a modern reinterpretation from 2004. The first letter of the name of each stone set into the delicate goldwork creates a message.
One of the exhibition’s most spectacular pieces is an oversize pair of wings encrusted with diamonds and blue enamel, commissioned in 1908 for Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, founder of the Whitney Museum in New York. She wore the wings, a classic Chaumet motif of the Belle Époque, mounted as an aigrette.
A Chaumet customer who now owns the wings allowed them to be displayed. “My best discovery for this exhibition,” Ms. de Plinval said, “is the wings.”